So I managed a bit more progress this evening – but first I basted the side seams to check the fit of the breeches.
I knew that I would have to adjust them somewhat as the pattern I have was only for L and XL and based on that the smallest waist size is 44″…….
My natural waist is smaller than that, even with ease, so I knew that I would have to take them in.
Anyway, I checked the fit and had to take about 2″ (5 cm) out of the waist – the back of the breeches are gathered, so what I did was un-pick the back pieces from the front, then un-pick the 2 back pieces. I then cut off the already pressed and stitched seam allowance (5/8″ – 1.5cm on each side) and re-stitched with the same seam allowance. This has effectively taken 1 1/4″ or 3cm out of the waist of the trousers.
However, the breeches were too baggy in the crotch too, so I did the same with the crotch (leg to leg) seam to reduce this by the same amount. Then I re-stitched the seam and pressed open.
Next was to mark out the fold and stitch lines on the vents at the sides of the legs (where the buttons go) and add interfacing.
The pictures above also show the next step which is to finish the long edge of the vents and I chose to fold 6mm (1/4″) to the wrong side and stitch. You can’t see the marked chalk lines as I’d also sewn the side seams before taking photos!
The vents are actually basted from the end of the leg to a large dot which is just below the top of the vent; the side seams are then stitched from the large dot to the top of the breeches, matching notches and the top of the pattern pieces.
You may be able to see in the above image that the side seam has been pressed open, but just above the vent the seam allowance has been cut to the stitch line to allow it to press flat. The back vent has been pressed along the fold line and the vent basted just below the top to hold it in place.
Next step is to finish off the legs and vents, but I need bias binding to do this (which I forgot when I got the notions for this make) so I’ll have to resume tomorrow.
I did however take some pictures with the buttons pinned on to give an idea of how the finished breeches will look…..