MAKE 11 – ‘SteamGoth’ Jacket
- Pattern – Simplicity 1309
- Materials – Silver and Red Brocades, Red Satin effect lining material
- Notions – 2 x types of buckle, eyelets, 3 x types of buttons, 2 types of book corners
This has been termed ‘SteamGoth’ by a lovely lady who commented on my post on the FB group and it’s stuck. It’s kind of the best of SteamPunk and Gothic – the sophisticated Vampire look at it’s best. Thank you Zoe!
It’s funny when you look back isn’t it how time flies? I hadn’t realised that I hadn’t made any items of clothing for over 6 months until I started on this Jacket.
This make really was the turning point with my sewing – I was now a member of the ‘Sewing in the UK’ Facebook Group and I needed a challenge. Sure I’d made some more teddy bears, but I really needed something to get my teeth into.
I’d had the Steampunk pattern for a while, but decided that I’d actively start looking for some material to make the jacket. (The trousers didn’t interest me at this point)
I’d been looking for some Corduroy (pin cord) for a while and hadn’t managed to find anything, but then I spotted this in my local fabric shop:
I immediately fell in love with it and decided that I could make the jacket out of this material – the red would make a fantastic contrast lining (the buttons came later) and it wasn’t too expensive.
I was making this for me, not for any particular purpose, but just to see if I could.
The material was seriously stunning! When I’d cut out the 2 front pieces and interfaced them, I could see how the finished jacket would look!
I had originally decided to use some thin leather for the straps, like in the picture on the pattern, but this didn’t work out so well, the leather was too springy and didn’t press flat, so I had to re-think. I’d already bought some of the red brocade to make the collar, and thought that using this for the straps would really help accent the jacket.
I had to adjust the strap templates slightly as the brocade frays like a demon; and because the pattern was using leather, you were supposed to leave raw edges. I can’t abide an unfinished seam, so I decided to stitch right sides together very close to the raw end and turn out. I forgot however, to re-size the straps to take this seam into account.
At this point I had to stop work for a while as I was waiting for buckles from China. Being the impatient sort of chap that I am, I found another site to source my buckles and ordered some more. (I have more buckles now than I could hope to use!)
Once the buckles had arrived, I was able to attach them to the straps and then stitch the straps to the jacket fronts.
The eyelets and finishing of the straps comes later.
Now I could attach the collars and the lining. The collars are sandwiched between the main fabric and the lining and sewn in one, then under-stitched to prevent the lining ‘rolling out’ and showing.
There is supposed to be a third collar sandwiched between the two that you can see. I decided at the start that I didn’t need it, and I would omit it. If I had inserted it, there would have been far too much fabric to stitch through – I had to go through 6 layers as it is, so I took it very steady and eased the thicker sections under the presser foot when stitching.
As I was making this jacket ‘just to see if I could’ I hadn’t even thought about pattern matching. This was brought to my attention when I posted on FB. You can see in the next 2 images, that the front looks fine, but there are obvious problems with the back of the jacket.
I wasn’t so worried about the vertical seam running down the centre of the back, the issue was the horizontal seam where the jacket tails met the main bodice.
You can see that there is a definite horizontal line which is unpleasing – it’s obvious enough to spot and spoils the line of an otherwise nice jacket. At this point it was a little to late to go back and re-cut, plus the material was just under £9 a metre and I’d waited so long for the buckles, that I decided to press on, and would sort this out later.
I’d completed the jacket, added the buttons and button holes and the eyelets and it was all looking pretty good. (Yes, the bottom two buttons are out of alignment and have since been adjusted) The main buttons I found in a local Charity shop – the others I ordered from an auction site.
I used ‘book corners’ for the raw edges of my fabric straps. These are metal pieces that you use over the corners of your hardback books to strengthen them – and they look really good. (I’ve got a LOT of these left as I had to order a number of sizes to ensure that I had the right ones – quick tip – order a little larger than you need!)
You can see that the buckles (which were the right size when ordered) are a little large – and this is down to making the straps out of fabric and turning right side out.
To finish off the back of the jacket, I decided to add a bar of fabric, or a false belt, like you see on some of the higher priced coats – I added two buttons to the centre of this and matched it with 2 more either side of the apex of the tails to tie the whole thing together.
Because there is a deliberate placed strip of fabric across the back (and the more observant of you will notice that it’s up-side down compared to the rest of the jacket) it looks right and hides that really badly matched seam. You may have also noticed that there is a slight vertical pattern mis-match on the tails – again as I was making this to see if I could I didn’t even think about this. However from a distance it doesn’t really notice.
The completed outfit:
The details of the Trousers follow – yes out of sequence I know – but it makes more sense to keep them here with the jacket. The shirt is Make 12, which you can find in 2018-02 February.
MAKE 13 – ‘SteamGoth’ Trousers
- Pattern – Simplicity 1309
- Materials – Red Brocades, Red Satin effect lining material
- Notions – 1 buttons, 7″ zip
Ok, so not strictly in order, I made the shirt first, but that kind of stands alone whereas the trousers definitely belong here!
I had originally intended just to wear black jeans with jacket (if I ever wore it anywhere) but that seem like a bit of a cop out, so I thought (after a bit of ‘persuading’ on FB) that I would make the trousers – but what to make them out of?
Ideally I would have made black trousers, but wanted a similar brocade in keeping with the jacket, but alas, that’s the one colour (well, not one but you know what I mean!) that they didn’t have this fabric in. I briefly thought about using the silver again, but quickly decided it would be too much – so I settled on the red.
This was my first pair of trousers and I thought that this would be difficult. It wasn’t as hard as I thought though…..
The zippered fly went in easily enough
You may have noticed that I was a bit more careful with the pattern matching here – not so much on the fly, but I did make sure that the pattern lined up on the horizontal, or it would have looked like I was leaning to one side! 😛
The only issue with this pattern was the fact that there were no pockets in it! The jacket has fake welt pockets that you can’t put anything in, so I was determined to insert pockets into the trousers. It’s relatively easy to insert pockets into a seam, so this is what I did – I couldn’t however decide if I should have the lining showing or not.
In the end with some help from FB, the decision was that the lining would be too distracting and so I went with the plain pocket inserts.
I added the waistband, added the buttonhole and button (rather than the bar clasp) and fully lined them with the red lining as the brocade is very ‘thready’ on the back and I would have been constantly catching it and pulling the fibres.
Unfortunately I hadn’t tried the trousers on for size and they were 2 inches too big! So, I un-picked the waistband at the back – graded the seam in the seat and re-stitched. (This was made more problematic because of the lining!) I then shortened the waistband at the back (added a seam) and re-attached it. They now fit beautifully.
Here’s a picture of me in the full outfit, including the shirt, but before I took the trousers in. (Please excuse the slippers!)