Make 19 – Men’s Long Sleeve Shirt
- Pattern – Kwik Sew K3422
- Material – Green Leaf Cotton Print
- Buttons – Lipped Wooden
This project was my second men’s long sleeve shirt – this one however was for myself, the previous one being for my brother.
I normally buy 3m of fabric that I like, but this was the end of the roll and there was just enough to squeeze the shirt out of:
With a large print pattern I will ensure that I pattern match for pockets etc, but with a small busy print like this I don’t usually bother and I didn’t in this instance. Because the pattern is so busy when I’d attached the pocket it was almost as if I had pattern matched as it is very difficult to spot:
I PROMISE you that there is a pocket in the above image!
I did make a couple of mistakes with this one though:
I’d used my chest measurement and worked out that I needed to cut a ‘Large’ which I did, but didn’t try it for fit until I’d attached the arms, and flat-felled the side and arm seams (sewn all-in-one with this pattern) – I then realised that it was FAR too big and I needed a Medium.
This meant un-picking the double-stitched seams – measuring for fit, cutting off the excess and re-sewing. Yes, I could have done this very simply with an overlocker, but I prefer flat-fell seams on a shirt – it gives it a lovely professional finish.
The second mistake I made was with the collar. I cut the collar stand correctly, but cut the upper and lower collars too small. I didn’t realise this until I came to assemble the collar. Rather than re-cut I decided to go with my ‘smaller’ collar and I really like the result. The shirt looks more ‘designer’ and I can always say that it was a ‘style choice’!
You can get away with a lot in sewing by saying it was a style choice :).
I just have to attach the cuffs (checking for fit since I’ve re-sized the arms), sew the button-holes and attach the buttons.
Spent some time this morning (before running some errands) attaching the cuffs – this needs precision so it’s important to trim them properly before attaching them.
The seam at the raw edge has been trimmed almost to the stitch line- this really helps as the alignment needs to be spot on – trimming the corners helps achieve a nice crisp edge when turned and pressed.
When pinning to the sleeves it’s essential that the seams line up exactly – don’t try and overlap the cuff slightly..
It’s a little tricky to see in the above image – but the cuff edge seam lines up exactly with the sleeve edge.
Once attached you press the stitchedseam towards the cuff – the above image shows the inside of the sleeve- you can see the cuff edge aligns with the sleeve edge.
This is the right side – the raw edge needs to be turned under, aligned just over the stitch line, pressed and pinned.
Once pinned top stitch really close to the folded edge.
Next the button holes were stitched – I use the seam ripper and pin method for opening my button holes…
Attaching buttons is easy with the button foot – just ensure you are aligned properly before putting your foot down as you don’t want to break a needle…
Just be sure to drop your feed dogs – or use your cover plate and take it slowly..
The finished shirt – fits beautifully x